Mr Viral
Skin care acids tend to generate a lot of buzz on social media. Hyaluronic acid and glycolic acid are cult favorites, but recently azelaic acid has been getting some well-deserved attention.
Azelaic acid is a science-backed skin care ingredient that works especially well for sensitive and acne-prone skin. It’s also common in products for hyperpigmentation and mild to moderate rosacea. After it’s spent years as an elusive “if you know, you know” skin care ingredient, the cat seems to be out of the bag about this powerful multitasker: Driven largely by TikTok—and Hailey Bieber’s golden endorsement—azelaic acid is seeing upwards of 52 million views and searches on social media right now.
Despite the recent hype, azelaic acid is not the most straightforward skin care ingredient. It’s a mild exfoliator but also has anti-inflammatory properties—which can make things a little confusing when it comes to working it into your routine. Below, experts explain how azelaic acid works, how to use it with your other skin care actives, and which skin concerns it may help the most.
Featured in this articleDrunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial
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Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
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The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
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SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
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The Inkey List Super Solutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum
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What is azelaic acid?Azelaic acid is an acid derived from grains like rye, wheat, and barley. It is also produced naturally by yeast that lives on healthy skin. When it comes to skin care products, though, it is typically chemically engineered in a lab to ensure it is as stable and effective as possible.
This ingredient isn’t an acid in the traditional sense of the word because it doesn’t break down the bonds between skin cells, causing them to peel away. Azelaic acid is also made up large molecules that are harder for the skin to absorb, making it less irritating. According to Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder of London’s Adonia Medical Clinic, azelaic acid is a milder exfoliator than resurfacing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) including glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids, which makes it a good choice for dry or sensitive skin.
Azelaic acid is known to block the enzyme tyrosinase. This causes excess melanin production in the skin and shows up as dark brown or red discoloration. “As a tyrosinase inhibitor, azelaic acid can also be used to fade lingering acne marks and treat hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Ejikeme. Azelaic acid is also a powerful antioxidant with skin-brightening properties, making it “a good option for reducing pigmentation often associated with pregnancy,” says consultant dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto.
Azelaic acid for perioral dermatitisIn a recent TikTok, Hailey Bieber zoomed in on tiny red bumps—otherwise known as perioral dermatitis (POD)—on the lower half of her face. “Azelaic Acid is found to be effective in treating the inflammation caused by POD,” she said the caption.
Turns out, she’s right. While a low dose of azelaic acid can dial down redness and spots, cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Sam Bunting also recommends initially using it every other day, until your skin acclimates to the ingredient.
Azelaic acid for acneAzelaic acid has antibacterial properties, meaning it can break up the blockages in your pores that lead to breakouts. It is also an anti-inflammatory, which can take the swelling down in angry spots.
Studies show that azelaic acid also regulates skin cell turnover. This is important for two reasons. It keeps pores clear of debris and tackles what Dr. Mahto calls hyperkeratinization—a key contributor to acne that basically refers to the abnormal shedding of skin cells.
Azelaic acid for rosaceaBecause it’s an anti-inflammatory ingredient, azelaic acid gels are often prescribed by dermatologists to treat rosacea or to soothe red patches of skin. One study found that the topical application of a 15% azelaic acid gel on rosacea-prone skin reduced what is known as the serine protease activity that causes inflammation. It also treated the redness, raised bumps, and pustules.
Better still, “it is one of the few topicals that is safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, allowing women to continue treating their rosacea or acne, which can flare up during this period,” explains Dr. Ejikeme.
How to use azelaic acid for the best resultsImportantly, azelaic acid is available in different concentrations. “It can be obtained over the counter in strengths of 10%, or on prescription—Finacea (15%) and Skinoren (20%),” says Dr. Mahto. One study published in the Journal of Medical Sciences revealed that all 40 participants who used a 10% azelaic acid gel saw their mild to moderate acne improve after just eight weeks.
Once you’ve found the right product, it’s fairly simple to introduce azelaic acid into your routine. Experts recommend applying azelaic acid to clean skin before moisturizer. A 10% over-the-counter formula can be applied every day all over your face or to affected areas only. For prescription products, follow your doctor’s instructions and the manufacturer’s guidelines.
What should you avoid using with azelaic acid?With so many active ingredients being used in skin care formulas, it’s never been more important to consider whether certain ingredients are safe to use in tandem with others.
DON’T mix azelaic acid with more acids: “It is exfoliating, so take care if you are using other acids,” says Dr. Ejikeme. “To avoid over-exfoliating the skin, stick to one resurfacing ingredient and increase slowly unless advised differently by your doctor.”
DON’T use with deep-cleansing face washes. You should avoid using astringents at the same time as azelaic acid to avoid dry, red, and sore skin.
DO combine azelaic acid with niacinamide: “It’s good to combine azelaic acid with other soothing and brightening ingredients like niacinamide or antioxidants,” says Dr. Ejikeme—advice that is especially beneficial for those experiencing patches of uneven skin tone.
How does azelaic acid compare to retinol?Azelaic acid and retinol work very differently and have their own pros and cons. Azelaic acid is great for reducing inflammation. But it is also gentle, so it may not be the best choice for those with severe acne if you use it as a stand-alone treatment.
Retinol speeds up cell turnover, which can cause peeling and redness during the initial bedding-in stage, but it is a proven aid for severe acne.
There is a compromise, though. Dr. Ejikeme believes that azelaic acid partners well with retinoids when used at different times of day: azelaic acid as a serum in the morning and a retinoid cream at night. It’s important to note, however, that everyone’s skin is different. It’s always best to consult your dermatologist, who may recommend a stronger skin care acid or more potent topical treatment.
How does azelaic acid compare to salicylic acid?According to Dr. Bunting, azelaic acid and salicylic acid are both excellent for treating acne-prone skin. In fact, she encourages her patients to use them in tandem. She recommends salicylic acid at 2% for those with very oily skin and angry breakouts. Once a patient is out of the acute acne phase and their skin is looking better, she suggests they switch to azelaic acid for “future preventative action.”
What side effects might result from using azelaic acid?“Of all the acids, azelaic acid is usually well tolerated with minimal side effects,” Dr. Ejikeme says. However, as with any exfoliating ingredient, there is the chance that skin could flare up and become red. “When starting an acid, I usually recommend you go slow and only start one active at a time to prevent irritation to the skin,” she says.
And finally, while SPF should already be an integral part of our everyday skincare regime, Dr. Ejikeme explains that it’s even more important to diligently apply it when using azelaic acid. “All acids can make skin more sensitive to the sun,” she says.
8 best azelaic acid products for calmer, brighter skinDrunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial
Prepare for skin with clearer pores and a more radiant gleam with this supercharged blend of salicylic acid, azelaic acid, and barrier-boosting ceramides.
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Salicylic acid and liquorice join forces with azelaic acid to unclog pores and boost brightness.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
With a high percentage of azelaic acid at a low price, this gel-cream is a good introductory product. It does, however, contain silicone, so if blocked pores and congestion are an issue, this may not be the right formula for you.
SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
This moisturizer is pricey, but the formula, which includes 3% azelaic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, and hydrating squalane, is great for dealing with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in dark skin tones.
The Inkey List Super Solutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum
Created with rosacea in mind, this fast-absorbing serum delivers a combination of anti-inflammatory azelaic acid to dial down redness and a green-tinted formula to help mask flushed skin.
Q+A Azelaic Acid Facial Serum
A double threat of azelaic acid and zinc PCA protects against spot-forming bacteria and balances oil levels.
Algenist Blue Algae Vitamin C Dark Spot Correcting Peel
Algenist’s team of scientists has harnessed the power of a 100% pure, algae-derived vitamin C to join azelaic acid in creating a more even skin tone.
Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA+AHA Salicylic Serum
A hit with social media’s skin-fluencers, use this blend of salicylic, mandelic, and azelaic acids to decongest your skin. Hyaluronic acid also swoops in to replace lost moisture and plump up fine lines.
A version of this story first appeared on Glamour UK.
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