Charli XCX Says Fillers Are Out, Polynucleotides Are In—What Do the Experts Say?

It’s very brat to be honest about what work you’ve had done, actually. When doing a Q&A session with fans on her private Instagram account (@360_brat for the uninitiated or those in Follow Request purgatory), Charli XCX responded to one question: “Ur face looks so slay what have you done (tips pls).”

“I get Botox and I got fillers once or twice but a while ago,” she wrote in response, “but honestly I think fillers are kind of over now. I do this thing called polyneucleotides, they’re like injections in your face—kinda like deep vitamins. But I also use Dalacin and Differin for my skin too. BUT just do all your research—what’s right for me/my skin/how I feel isn’t necessarily what’s right for u etc.”

“The most important takeaway lies in the last part, which is: Do your own research with a licensed and experienced expert because what works for Charli XCX might not be what is right for you,” David Shafer, a double board-certified plastic surgeon, tells Vogue.

“With all of that said, I’m in favor of biostimulators like polynucleotides,” he adds. Biostimulators are compounds that can be injected into the dermis (the deep layer of the skin) with the aim of stimulating new tissue growth, encouraging skin to produce its own volume rather than injecting volume with the likes of dermal fillers. “Biostimulators stimulate your body’s natural collagen production to improve skin texture and firmness,” says Dr. Shafer.

Maurice Dray, cofounder of Dr. Dray Clinic, previously explained to Vogue that polynucleotides are derived from salmon DNA and ”regenerate tissue and promote accelerated [cell] repair.” You’ve probably seen the salmon-sperm treatment go viral on TikTok for this reason and purpose. Dr. Dray praised it for “promoting deep skin renewal,” which “results in longer-lasting skin rejuvenation.”

Catherine Chang, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon and founder of NakedBeauty MD and Privé Beverly Hills, has a note on Charli’s descriptor of polynucleotides as “deep vitamins,” though. “Nucleotides are actually multiple chains of DNA building blocks,” says Dr. Chang. “It’s very different. Vitamins are more of a nutrient. Currently in the US, this procedure is not FDA approved or legal, but as more research develops and more data is gathered on its safety and efficacy, this has potential for use within aesthetics.”

Dr. Shafer also likens polynucleotides to other biostimulators like the popular PRF, or platelet-rich fibrin, where the patient’s own blood protein is used to trigger rejuvenation at the cellular level. Remember the vampire facial? It makes sense then that, as Charli mentions, it’s paired with Differin; that’s the brand name for Adapalene, a topical retinoid that helps with acne (alongside the other acne helper she mentions, Dalacin, an antibiotic lotion also known as clindamycin phosphate). “Retinoids also help with cellular turnover and prompt collagen production,” he says.

“You can see that her treatments are focused on skin quality,” Dr. Shafer says. “Dermal fillers, on the other hand, provide structure and definition.” During her Vogue Beauty Secrets video, Charli shared her skin journey: “I actually got a bout of adult acne when I was 25,” she said. “That’s when I was like, Oh, skin care…I should probably learn about that.”

The question remains whether filler is well and truly out. On TikTok, there’s a hyperfixation on the bloated, overfilled pillow-face look and, in contrast, a piqued interest in so-called tweakments, which provide a more subtle look. And we know people are getting more educated and feel much more cautious when it comes to filler, injectables, and cosmetic surgery generally. Plus, there’s a wider range of accessible, alternative treatments to explore, too, from laser therapy to microneedling. Still, misconceptions about filler abound.

“It’s true we’re continuing to see people shift away from overdone filler and go for a more natural look,” says Dr. Chang. “We’re seeing people choose more biostimulators.” She highly advises you to do your own research and check what’s really FDA approved if you’re in the US.

Dr. Shafer does recommend, though, that if you’re looking to address deep wrinkles or help with sagginess (something Charli is not), you instead explore filler options like Voluma and Volux.

So: in, out? Hot, not? “In short, it is not an either/or but rather a combination of both depending on the concerns and anatomy of the patient,” Dr. Shafer says. “A well-experienced and trained physician can give you structural volume without unnatural appearances. Both are great, both work differently and harmoniously.” Your own body autonomy and free choice will forever be brat.