Sunflower, the Danish menswear label, is a remarkable case study in less-is-more. The company’s headcount numbers two, co-founders Ulrik Pedersen, who is in charge of design, and CEO Alan Blond. With decades of experience between them, the duo can work directly with their suppliers and eliminate the middleman. But more than that, Pedersen has a sense of what works—more than a million pairs of the Simon khakis he created at his previous company, NN.07, have sold. Sunflower is a more niche offering; its red thread is a rock’n’roll attitude, which took the form of snakeskin ties this season.
Pedersen isn’t aiming to reinvent the wheel, but to create impact out of small adjustments. The result is that there is something out-of-the-ordinary about a Sunflower design, but it’s not anything you can’t put a finger on. For fall, the designer continued to explore the return to dressing up he addressed last season; showing the clothes on a woman as well as men added an unexpected element of excitement to the offering at a time when we’re seeing what might be the beginning of a revival of androgyny. If plaid shirts and a certain bagginess to the cut of pants carried the scent of teen spirit, a cashmere sweater in Nantucket red and a barn jacket in a sort of sponge-paint effect camo added a bit of a preppiness. Perfectly tailored coats, one in mossy-colored wool, another a natty herringbone, could be worn with a well-cut pair of jeans, which were cut in both brown and black leather, as well as a washed maroon denim. A zip-front black leather jacket styled with a tie captured the dress-up/down vibe of the season. NB: The collection was first presented in Paris; Vogue Runway saw it in Copenhagen.
GIPHY App Key not set. Please check settings